Hue
The former imperial capital of the country from 1802 to 1945, Hue is often referred to as Vietnam’s most beautiful city and has long been a major cultural, religious and educational centre.
Surrounded by moats, the intriguing Purple Forbidden City which served as the residence of the Nguyen Emperors was constructed by Emperor Gia Long in 1804. Largely destroyed during the American War, the remains of the citadel, which have been partially restored, still contain interesting sights.
The main landmark is the Perfume River (Hương Giang), with the old city and the Citadel on the north side and the newer city, including most hotels and restaurants, on the south side. Much of the riverside has wisely been done up as a pleasant promenade and park dotted with bizarre sculptures. The tombs are located further south in the outskirts of Hue.
Hue’s weather is infamously bad: the Truong Son Mountains just to the south seem to bottle up all the moisture, so it’s usually misty, drizzly or outright rainy. Things get even wetter than usual in the winter rainy season, especially from February to the end of March. To be safe, bring along an umbrella any time of year. Don’t forget to bring a jacket in winter as it can get rather chilly, with temperatures falling to as low as 8 degrees at night. Alternatively, when the sun makes an appearance for a day or a week, it can reach 30 degrees.
It’s usually quite dry during the summer months, when the temperature can reach the high 30’s. Summer rains can be heavy but brief, and often arrive unexpectedly, whereas February rains can last for weeks. The best description for the weather in Hue would be “changeable”.
The former imperial seat of government and Hue’s prime attraction, this is a great sprawling complex of temples, pavilions, moats, walls, gates, shops, museums and galleries, featuring art and costumes from various periods of Vietnamese history. Thanks to its size, it is also delightfully peaceful – a rare commodity in Vietnam. It is pretty huge; plan to spend at least 3 hours there.
The citadel was badly knocked about during fighting between the French and the Viet Minh in 1947, and again in 1968 during the Tet Offensive, when it was shelled by the Viet Cong and then bombed by the Americans. As a result, some areas are now only empty fields, bits of walls, and an explanatory plaque. Other buildings are intact, though, and a few are in sparkling condition. For the rest, while restoration has been going on for 20 years, there is still quite a long way to go. Allow several hours to see it properly.
